Saturday, August 14, 2010

A Friendship is Born (A Funny Story)



My teacher, Dil is brilliant. This man is so dedicated to what he does. He teaches Arabic, and he has become one of my favorite people. I feel like we became real friends in Cairo, which just makes me happy. As the director of our program in Cairo, he had to set and enforce lot of rules, and work very hard to keep us all engaged with Arabic. He worked harder than all of us, and that’s saying something.

Dil


Anyway, great man. 

This is a story about how our friendship began.

The Hedayet Institute, where we all went to class, was a great little institution, in some ways. One way that it wasn’t very great was in the fact that the A/C was pretty questionable, and was only in the classrooms. The lack of cool air made studying between classes pretty unbearable. Dil and Jason (the directors of the program) lived in beautiful, air-conditioned apartments just around the corner from our school, and had opened their homes to all of us (which I thought was immeasurably kind) for studying and just hanging out, napping etc. all day. I was there one day and Dil happened to be there as well. He was just sitting there working on his computer. I noticed his shoes. They were plastic-y-looking slip-on sandals, worn over socks, with a sort of x shape over the top of the foot. I thought they were fantastic. I noticed that they were torn on one side.

“Dil, those are great shoes,” said I.

Dil laughed (If only I could convey the way he laughed with words).
He told me that they were his house slippers and that he loved those shoes more than any other shoe. He had purchased his first pair in the 70s when he first set foot in Egypt, and had purchased a new pair every time he had been back since then.

“But these ones are clearly falling to pieces!” I lamented, “why have you not yet purchased a new pair?”

A look of sadness came over him as he explained that he had tried. Boy had he tried. He couldn’t find them anywhere, and feared they had lost their appeal to Egyptians. They were no longer available, and it was something he would have to come to terms with. I felt a little bit sad for him… and maybe thought about it too much.


*

Jump to the next morning.

I awoke, realizing that my dream had been incredibly vivid; something so real. I delayed properly waking up so I could lay there trying to recall my dream… and then all at once there it was…

I was walking briskly, excitedly toward Dil’s office.  I pushed open the door and said, in the sing-songy voice I sometimes do, “Oh Dilllll! What do you think about these shoes of mine?” I smiled at him, in very self-satisfied way, raising my eyebrows and extending my foot, toe pointed, so he could see the Dil-sandals that I had recently acquired. He gasped, “Where did you find those?!”

And that was it. That was the dream.

I laughed as I got out of bed, excited to report to Dil that he had made an appearance in my dream. I did tell him, at school the next day. He laughed (again, I wish I could convey his laughter).


*

About two months later…

A few friends and I were down at Khan al-Khali, sweaty and tired after a long afternoon of haggling and pushing our way through crowds. There’s much to see, but you’re often better off ignoring the invitations to look at goods. Sometimes though, my eyes would wander down to the ground, where blankets or tarps would display random collections of things for sale: massage oil, scarves, belts, underwear. I glanced down and stopped in my tracks as I saw, though it were the holy grail, a solitary pair of the sandals Dil loves. I bought them as quickly as I saw them. They were the only pair, so I hoped they were the appropriate size, but decided since they were only about eighty-nine cents, that it would be a great gift even if the fit was off.

The next morning at the school, I stood outside of Dil’s office door and slipped the new shoes onto my feet. I opened the door in a Kramer-like fashion… I said, in the sing-songy voice I sometimes do, “Oh Dilllll! What do you think about these shoes of mine?” I smiled at him, in very self-satisfied way, raising my eyebrows and extending my foot, toe pointed, so he could see the Dil-sandals that I had recently acquired. He gasped, “Where did you find those?!”

The famous shoes on my feet, moments before revealing them to Dil

I told him how I had stumbled upon them and he was astonished. I asked if he was jealous. He was. I took them off of my feet and handed them over to him, informing him that they were a gift. He took off his other shoes, explaining that he was going to put on the sandals right then and wear them everyday. He was overjoyed. I apologetically asked if they fit, and what size he wore, and told him I didn’t really have many options. The shoes were size 11, as was Dil.

“And they’re blue!” He said in awe, “that’s the color I always get!”

I reminded him that I had dreamt this exact scenario, and we spent the next little while discussing the fact that I had, in fact, dreamt the future—no easy task—and thus, a friendship was born.

A very happy Dil, at his desk, immediately after receiving his new shoes 

*I have since dreamt that Dil was kidnapped by a pretty tough-looking guy, and in an attempt to spare himself, Dil buddied up to his captor by wearing a black leather jacket, growing out his hair and filling his face and ears with piercings. His tactics worked, and he was released. His wife, worried about the rumors that were spreading about her husband living on the wild side, promptly took him to the salon where his hair was washed, dried, and curled in a very feminine 40s sort of way.

Needless to say, Dil and his wife are worried about the future. 

Friday, August 13, 2010

Swimming in the Suez Canal


The day-trip up to the Suez canal should have happened before we were all completely spoiled in Aswan. It was a disappointment. We rode a smelly bus for four hours so we could cross the “Japan -Egypt Friendship Bridge” which goes over the canal and take a picture from the window. We weren’t allowed to get off the bus. 

It was hard to get a good picture, as the bus was moving...


We still had high hopes though, because we were told we were going to be able to swim in the canal too, which sounds amazing, right? Well... the bus dropped us off at this “resort” full of Egyptians. I think I’ve already mentioned the outrageous amounts of attention westerners (especially women) get over there… just imagine how that attention intensifies when there’s a group of fifty of you, in swimsuits. 

It took a long time for me to build up the courage to lose the towel and just go for it… and not just because of the hundreds of eyes. The water was, well, disgusting. Think floating band-aids, plastic bags wrapping around your ankles, long hairs catching on your hand as you swim… disgusting. And yet, I had to do it. How many people can say they’ve been swimming in the Suez Canal? I refused to get my head wet, and I think I screamed/laughed, and almost cried the entire time. 

Once I’d had enough, I went with some girls to find the showers… ha. The one I ended up using was just a big open faucet that poured water down so fiercely I just laughed more and got out as soon as I got in. Shower fail. 

And that was it. 

Back on the bus for the four-hour ride home. 

We entertained ourselves by photographing the things out the windows, like so:


And by staging a classic banana peal slip:

Oh, I forgot, we also got to stop in the town for some koshiry. That was the highlight, as always. 

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Nubians & Elephantine Island

Down in Aswan there’s a little boat you can get on that will ferry you across the Nile to Elephantine Island. 

It’s so far away from the typical things people go to Egypt to see, but when I go back to Egypt, insha’allah, I really must make it all the way back down to this magical place. There are a few things to see there: a museum, an archeological site and the nilometer, but the best part about this place for me was the interaction with the people, followed closely by the beautifully painted buildings and homes.
This is the museum. It’s very small, and the building itself might have been my favorite part.


And then there was the archeological area, so clearly pointed out on this sign:

This is the view from the archeological sight. It was beautiful up there.

This is the nilometer.


It was used for centuries by many different conquering peoples to measure the level of the Nile, which would then determine what sorts of taxes should be imposed.

We had free time after leaving the museum to explore and experience the island, so Adam and Will and I started doing just that. I fell in love with the homes and the colors of the buildings.























We saw another member of our group, Sean, with some little boys who were playing soccer in a big dirt field. Adam and Will joined the group and I took pictures and basked in what a beautifully remarkable experience it was… down in the southern Nubian-inhabited edge of Egypt, on a tiny island with all these little boys having the time of their lives playing with two big American boys. And the best part was, we could communicate with them.






I loved every minute of it. In fact, I loved it so much, I was moved to make my first souvenir purchase of the summer: a scarf from a little weaver’s shop. 


Supposedly the scarf was made right there on the loom… I tend to disbelieve that, but I love it nonetheless.



Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Luxor & Aswan

I decided to try to catch up. This is old, but pretty good. 

One thing I truly wasn’t excited about this time around was the night train experience along the Nile from Cairo down to Luxor… about 9 hours maybe? I don’t quite recall. It was a good thing my hopes for this night on the train were so low, because it ended up being one of the most fantastic and relaxing nights I had experienced in Egypt. 

(This is a picture I took on my phone as the train sped passed us, on it's way to slowing down. I think it's such a cool picture. My camera is getting increasingly jealous of my phone.)

We were all assigned to our sleeper cars, which opened to the neighboring car, if you unlocked the door and allowed that to happen. Our neighbors were Sean and Adam. (Sean and I served in the same mission in LA and go way back. Adam and I were about to become great friends – partly because he threw a dinner roll at me… more on that in a bit). 

(This is me, well my feet, as I lay relaxing on my top bunk watching Egypt pass by)

About an hour into the journey our light conversation was interrupted with a knock at the door. It was dinner. I must say, in the year and a half since I was here last, things seem to have improved slightly. I ate most everything. Except for the dinner roll. It was pretty stale, and I stated thus over dinner. Breakfast wasn't quite as satisfying.

dinner:

breakfast:

I noted how the dinner rolls didn’t seem to be edible, but that they would be perfect for throwing at someone. When I awoke the next morning on my top bunk, there was a knock at the door. Hannah, on the lower bunk, opened it up, and there was Adam. He threw his roll from dinner at me and ran away. I’d like to say that that was the beginning of our friendship... 

Anyway, we proceeded on to Luxor where we explored the incredible Karnak and Luxor temples. I took some pics, but not a ton, since I took something like five hundred pictures last time I was in Luxor... I know, a little over the top. Luxor was amazing though all over again.

Half of our group of about 60 went home to Cairo after a few days in Luxor, but the other half of us that opted for the “long trip” stayed behind. I’m so glad I did. We went all the way down to Aswan. 


The "short-trippers" all left on Sunday afternoon, at which point exhaustion took over and I decided to take a nap. It had been a long day already, as we’d had to wake up at something like 5 am to see everything before it got to hot outside (I’m just trying to justify what happened next). So, I took a 9-hour “nap” waking up at midnight. I changed into jammies, checked my emails and went back to bed till it was time to wake up again at 5 am, board the bus and sleep for two more hours. I don't think I'd ever been so well-rested. I felt great!

We saw more temples which weren’t as old, but were really neat to see cause the art styles had developed and was a little more realistic… rounder bellies, fancier faces and things. We stayed at a fancy resort there right on the Nile (which I actually saw advertized in the airplane magazine on my way out of Egypt... see the middle picture in the ad below...)



My friends Will and Adam and I had koushiry at this one little restaurant, complete with the classic metal dishes, for the three meals we were to have there. It was quite possibly my favorite part. 


Me, Adam and Will. We were practicing crying on command.

I can see already that this post is getting much too detailed. I have so much catching up to do that I really must do.

Well, the next day down in Aswan we were up at 2 am and on a bus headed for Abu Simbel. This was incredible. 


It’s right on Lake Nasser, and there’s a lot of history to all of this that should be understood, but I’m unapologetically leaving the explaining to Wikipedia.



So all in all, these are the temples we saw: 




Philae is on an island. We had to take a boat to get out there.




*

And then on top of that we also saw the following:


(Pictures were not allowed... well, they weren't allowed at Valley of the Kings either, but I snuck the one above. Maybe one day I'll write about the crazy story that followed...)





I wish I had time to write about each one individually, but then what would be left for you when you go and see them for yourselves? 

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Next up: Elephantine Island and the Nubians...


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